This Island Has No Hotels—But You Can Stay If You Do Yoga

With no hotels or campgrounds and only a smattering of vacation rentals and bed and breakfasts, Bowen Island is typically reserved for day trippers. Located in the Gulf Islands of British Columbia, the island boasts forests, snow-capped mountain views, a riot of foxgloves, and the sort of tranquil atmosphere that comes with limited tourism.

The best option for staying in the 7 1/2-mile-long stretch, I discovered, is to practice yoga.

Nectar Yoga is a year-round retreat set on a 20-acre site in the middle of the island. It’s a golden ticket of sorts offering access to Bowen’s hiking trails and an opportunity to spend a night (or several) in luxuriating in this peaceful place. As a bonus, Nectar is not a restrictive retreat. There are no intensive practices, no prohibitions on alcohol, and complete freedom to enjoy the natural beauty of the island—and the yoga—as much or as little as I like during my stay.

And I planned on enjoying quite a bit of it.

The Nectar Experience

Bowen Island’s distaste for hotels all comes down to community and charm. Nectar is the closest thing you’ll find to a luxury hotel on-island, and a primary aspect of that luxury is the backdrop of the island itself.

After the ferry docks, my fellow retreat goers and I make our way up the street for lunch and window shopping along Trunk Road (the main drag) before our 3 p.m. check-in at Nectar. Driving down the narrow road into the resort, with its cabins nestled in a bowl of Alder trees and evergreens, I feel my shoulders drop, tension as soft light filters through the branches.

For my two-day retreat, I stay in Quartz, one of the three larger deluxe cabins on property, each named after a crystal. Bunking in these Scandi-chic cabins, which accommodate one to two guests, is no hardship. Each contained a king bed or two XL twins with plush linens as well as a bathroom, indoor and outdoor showers, a writing desk, and a reading nook.

We attend a late afternoon yoga class and guided relaxation to kick off our stay. There’s a variety of add-ons, from private yoga and breathwork sessions to massages, tarot card readings, and a session in the adjoining Mist Thermal Sanctuary with its private cedar saunas. Wellness and relaxation are everywhere here.

A Perfect Day

The next morning after some coffee and tea, I sit in a relaxing 30-minute guided meditation under Nectar’s tented dome. Next comes an hour-long yoga session, an all-levels class led by Andrea Clark, Nectar’s owner and one of its yoga teachers, that blends Ashtanga and Anusara training as well as some functional movement.

The highlight of the class comes when a doe stops right in front of the window of the dome, pausing to chew grass and watch us flow between postures before springing off into the forest. After a group breakfast, I head out to stroll Artisan Square, an enclave of art galleries, shops, and studios.

A 90-minute sauna session provides the ultimate counterbalance to my island perusal. I do a couple of circuits, first in the private dry sauna with a window overlooking the forest; followed by a hot and cold plunge in spring water; and ending with a few minutes snuggled up with blankets in front of a fire.

Relaxed and rejuvenated, I decide to catch the sunset on the pebbled beach at Cape Roger Curtis Lighthouse, a popular spot for wildlife watching. I keep my eyes open for migrating humpback whales or Orcas, but settle for a sea lion that waves its flipper at me before disappearing as the sun dips below the horizon.

Time for Exploration

Nectar is as much about exploration and personal introspection as it is yoga, and the classes offered morning and afternoon are encouraged but not required. Indeed, while we’re practicing, one member of the group opts for a very challenging bike ride up to Mount Gardner (before breakfast!) to take in the view.

I, too, was inspired to make the most of my time on the island, observing its natural wonders. I skip one afternoon class to make the most of the the daylight hours, exploring the property before an early dinner at the wisteria-draped Italian restaurant near the harbor. I wasn’t looking to deepen my practice or work on my inversions—what I needed was to fill my cup with natural beauty. Clark insists that’s perfectly okay.

“We give people a lot of time to read, rest, and go for a walk,” she says. Those who want to go a bit deeper can take one of several immersive retreats offered each year at Nectar with visiting teachers.

At its heart, the two-day Nectar Experience is a “sweet spot for busy people,” says Clark. I certainly felt lucky to be able to wake up to the pristine beauty of Bowen Island, and inhale its pine-scented breeze as I stretched and moved and felt my monkey mind slow.

I will be back.

Getting to (and Around) Bowen Island

Bowen Island may sound remote, but getting there is relatively easy. Catch the British Columbia Ferry from Horseshoe Bay in Vancouver; without a car, the trip will cost you about $12 (with a car, you can expect this rate to triple).

During the day, options for dining are limited: While there are surprisingly good markets and dinner restaurants on this tiny island of 4,000 residents, only a few cafes and stores serve lunch.

Tip: If you’re not bringing a car, e-bikes, golf carts, or scooters are available for rent, as well as a bus that passes Nectar every hour.  Otherwise, it’s a 40-minute walk from the harbor. Just make sure to wave down the bus. As one of our fellow retreat guests found out, the bus might pass you by if you don’t signal.